Fabric construction techniques

Fabric Construction Techniques

Weaving Techniques

  • Weaving is a method of fabric construction where two sets of yarns interlaced at right angles. The vertical yarns are called warp yarns and horizontal ones are the weft yarns.

  • Different types of weaves include plain weave, satin weave, and twill weave. These differ in the pattern of interlacing between warp and weft threads.

  • In a plain weave, each weft yarn goes over and under each warp yarn alternately. This type of weave is highly stable, but it is not very flexible.

  • The satin weave consists of warp or weft yarns floating over four or more yarns and then going under one yarn. This weave gives the fabric a lustrous and smooth surface.

  • Twill weave has a diagonal pattern achieved by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads. This type of structure is known for its strength and drape.

Knitting Techniques

  • Knitting is also a method of fabric construction which involves making loops of yarns interlock in a choice of line or round pattern.

  • Knitting techniques are broadly divided into weft knitting and warp knitting.

  • Weft knitting is knitting along the width of the fabric. The types of weft knitting include plain, rib, purl, and interlock knitting.

  • Warp knitting is knitting along the length of the fabric using multiple threads at the same time. Different warp knitting types include tricot and raschel.

Non-Woven Techniques

  • Non-woven fabrics are directly made from fibres, bypassing the spinning and weaving stages. They are bonded or felted together, through mechanical, thermal, or chemical methods.

  • Among the common non-woven techniques are felt making, bonding, and spun bonding.

  • Felt making involves matting, condensing and pressing the fibres.

  • Bonding is when fibres are held together by a bonding agent or by interlocking, as in needlepunch fabric.

  • Spun bonding involves melting a thermoplastic fibre, extruding it through a spinneret, cooling the resulting filaments, and then laying these down on a conveyor to form a web, which is then bonded by heat and pressure.

Fabric Construction Understanding

  • Textile designers and technologists must thoroughly understand these fabric construction techniques to manipulate or create a variety of fabrics for diverse applications.

  • Consideration of different fabric construction techniques is imperative because fabric construction processes determine the performance characteristics and applications of the final fabric.

  • Fabric construction can impact the resilience, absorbency, drapability, strength, heat insulation, durability, and other physical and mechanical properties of the fabric.