Oh What a Lovely War: Costume design (including hair and make-up)

Costume Design

Uniform and civilian clothes are primary to “Oh What a Lovely War”. Soldiers are typically dressed in regiment-specific uniforms with the officers often distinguished by more elaborate or higher-quality attire.
Uniforms are historically detailed, reflecting the disparity between ranks and serving as a visual clue to the state of the soldiers: pristine at the start, increasingly worn and tattered as the war drags on.
The Generals are garbed in more ostentatious, pristine uniforms implying both their rank and detachment from the muddy, bloody reality of the front-line.
Civilian clothes vary greatly since a wide cross-section of society is depicted, from the middle and upper classes to working-class families. Women’s clothing often displays the passage of time and shifting societal norms, for instance, with war-time austerity and subsequent suffragette movement.
There may also be heavy use of clown or pantomime costumes, a reflection of the show’s music-hall origins and a key part of its satire. A seemingly innocuous Pierrot clown costume, for example, can become chilling when smeared with stage-blood.

The hair and makeup in “Oh What a Lovely War” can be utilised to heighten the contrast between the civilian and military world, and to accentuate the horrors of the war.
Soldiers often sport short hair under their caps or helmets while the generals display the fashion of the era, often with well-groomed moustaches.
Makeup can help to display the physical toll of war on the soldiers: initially fresh-faced, growing increasingly dirty and exhausted, and eventually showing physiological signs of shell-shock or injuries.
Clown makeup, especially white face paint and exaggerated features can heighten the absurd and grotesque elements of the play. Horns, noise-makers, and comedic props relate to the playful yet biting satire of war.

The costumes, hair and makeup in “Oh What a Lovely War” can serve as potent signifiers for deeper themes.
The deterioration of soldiers’ uniforms and physical appearance symbolise the devastating effects of war on the physical and mental health of the individuals.
The clown costumes juxtaposed against the grim reality of war powerfully represents the irrationality and absurdity of war.
Distinguishing costumes can help underscore the class and societal inequalities that were often amplified by war. For instance, the polished costumes of the generals reflect their privileged status, far removed from the ordeal of the soldiers.